| Author | Message | ||
     Louise (163.121.208.9) |
Hi There, all of you. I am sitting in some internetcafe somewhere in Luxor "city", not Aboudi's though, because it is not open yet. The connection here is fine, and they have air conditioning. I have now spent 2 weeks here, I am getting used to the heat, and I have seen all the usual stuff - the temples along the Nile, the Valley of The Kings etc, and I also had the chance to see the third terrace in Deir el Bahari, which is now open, as I guess most of you know. I have never seen it before, so it was a new experience for me. Luxor is filled with tourists, in many temples and tombs you have to wait patiently in looong lines before your turn, and it is my feeling that business is generally good these days in Egypt. I meet mostly British, Spanish and Italian groups, and the Russians are here as well, but keeping mostly to the Red Sea coast. The weather was extreme the first week, had about 50 degrees celsius in Aswan, but this week it has been around 30-35 degrees celsius, which is bearable. This morning I woke up at 4 o clock, took my guests to the airport and went to a cafe with our Egyptian representative to drink coffee and smoke waterpipe - it was very peaceful, quiet and nice. Later I met with a colleague who has bought a house on the Westbank, and we went there to see how the contractors were doing :o) After that I went to say hello to the people at New Gezira Hotel and spend an hour there just chatting. Now I am actually supposed to spend some time working on my arrival tonight, but I thougt I would send this to the BB first. I hope you are all well. Best regards from Upper Egypt Louise | ||
| Sonny Stengle (Sonny_Stengle) (217.235.202.117) |
Louise, say hello to Gamal at the Gezirah Hotel..... Nice to hear you have a great time in Luxor. greetinx Sonny | ||
| b.j.barnes (12.82.165.155) |
Dear Louise; Thank you for the very informative posting. I could almost feel the heat! Are the sunrises as gorgeous as I think they must be? Please keep us all in touch with what is happening with you and your guests. Sounds like you are enjoying your visit very much.  Betty j | ||
| Andrew (Guardian) (24.98.129.194) |
Louise - Always great to hear from you. Thanks for the note live from Egypt! Best Regards, Andrew | ||
| nefetari (213.137.30.252) |
wow your so lucky! say hi to the egyptians for me, i am going to egypt when i finish all my exams! | ||
| karen.warren (62.6.99.167) |
Hi, I am arriving next wednesday, it was nice to read your report...do you know Alaa from Jems, great restauran t | ||
| Louise A. New member Username: louise Post Number: 1 Registered: 09-2002 Posted From: 213.237.27.241 |
Hi all I am finally back on the board after some small problems. Thanks Andrew for your help. I am back home from Egypt, has been at home for nearly a week now. I left Egypt just as the high season started. The last week I was there was spend onboard a cruiseship, cruising Luxor-Aswan and back. I had to manage 37 guests, which started out as a troublesome task, but in the end it went extremely well. I had some problems at first with overbookings, flightdelays, non cooperative Egyptian colleagues and so on. Luckily the probs were solved, and we had a very nice cruise. The huge crowds are starting to occupy the tombs and temples, and it was nearly impossible to visit Valley of The Kings due to hundreds, if not thousands of people just teeming into the valley. The poor small "tuf-tuf trains" were working overtime, and all the postcard sellers became frustrated, not knowing where to start or where to end  My Egyptian connections, who are supposed to know these things MONTHS before us deadly people, kept on telling me that the tomb of Horemheb was JUST ABOUT to be re-opened, but nothing happened, and I didn't get to see this tomb once again. I am sure they will open it, and then, when I return back at some point, it will be closed again. I already told you that the 3rd terrasse of Hatshepsuts temple has been opened to the public, but other than that, I am afraid I didn't see anything I hadn't seen before. Well, actually I saw something new in Aswan near the unfinished obelisk. Apparently, archaeologists have found some drawings of dolphins and ostriches (I have no idea what ostrich is called in plural, sorry) probably from New Kingdom. I am not an arcaheologist, so I cannot tell for sure whether they were genuine or not, but it certainly looked genuine to me. Interesting, though I don't know what to make of them. As some of you might know, I am trying to write an MA thesis, main subject being Deir el Medina. I visited this wonderful place a number of times, bribed my way into the hearts of the guards, and was allowed to take some photos inside the tombs, minus flash, of course. I also found some beautiful new books and some older "hard-to-get" publications in the bookshop at the Deir el Medina site. This is really a tip for any of you going to Upperegypt. The bookshop at this site really has some special publications you'll not find anywhere outside Cairo. It is mostly archaeologists and egyptologists from the French Institute in Cairo who do the diggin' here, and they allow the bookshop to sell out of print publications from the institute. A great place! I also went to the temple of Dendara a couple of times. Not a totally new experince for me, I have seen the temple once before, but now I had the chance to do some guiding inside the temple, in the crypts and on the roof. The temple itself is spectacular, with lots of paint still remaining, interesting reliefs with Cleopatra 7 and Caesarion, and a breathtaking view from atop the roof. I was working hard, so I allowed myself a week of vacation, and instead of feeling guilty not looking at old stones, I went with my sister to Sinai, and spend a week in a 5* beachresort hotel, just snorkeling with all the fantastic fish, eating lovely food and just relaxing. Egypt truly has everything, and I cannot wait to be back. Maybe I should say that i also managed to squeeze in a few days in Cairo to see the giants in Giza, and to feel history coming very close at the foot of the steppyramid in Saqqara. I have lived in Cairo, and have seen these things so many times, but mostly always with me as a guide and a group of tourists in tow. This time I went as a private person with my closest family who had never seen the pyramids before and it was great. I was, however, not there for the opening of the shaft. I am looking forward to participate in all the interesting discussions here again. Best regards Louise  | ||
| Andrew Moderator Username: guardian Post Number: 509 Registered: 01-1997 Posted From: 216.78.249.3  |
Good to have you back. Great to hear about your trip. It makes one want to go back to Egypt right away. But, in my case, it will have to wait until the Springtime. Sorry to hear about the Horemheb tomb, though I'm sure you'll get into it eventually. Regards, Andrew | ||
| Janine Williams New member Username: janine Post Number: 41 Registered: 09-2002 Posted From: 66.26.228.164 |
Louise: Thanks for a delightful vicarious visit! Janine | ||
| Su Bayfield New member Username: su_bayfield Post Number: 4 Registered: 10-2002 Posted From: 62.64.238.216 |
Louise What a lovely post - you make me feel quite homesick. I haven't been to Egypt since April and it feels like years. I too was disappointed about Horemheb's tomb, which I was assured would be open when I got there. That's Egypt I guess. I've heard there are two new tombs sheduled to be open on the West Bank this season. Do you know what they are? On my last trip I did a balloon flight which I've wanted to do for years - it was well worth the wait and the cost! In January I'm planning to visit as many sites in Middle Egypt as I can, as well as the Faiyum, Alexandria and familiar ones in Cairo. Does anyone know what's definitely open in Middle Egypt at present (or definitely not open)? Can anyone recommend a hotel in Minya or Mallawi? Su http://www.egyptsites.co.uk | ||
| Louise A. Member Username: louise Post Number: 5 Registered: 09-2002 Posted From: 213.237.27.241 |
Dear Su, thanks for your nice words. I am almost positive that there were no new tombs opened the times I visited the Valley, and in Deir el Medina it was the same 2 tombs as usual. In Valley of the Queens, only the same 4 open as usual, including Nefertari. About the Nobles Tombs, I am not sure if any new ones are opened. About Middle Egypt: I have been told that you either have to 1) Travel within a group or 2) Pay extremly high prices for private convoys. Either way, it should be next to imposible to travel Middle Egypt by yourself, but of course it should be possible, specially if you have been to Egypt before and know your way around customs, manners and Egyptians  One of my colleagues has just left for a trip to Middle Egypt, but they are travelling in a group, and they are under constant (I literally mean constant) police supervision. I don't want to get into any political discussions here, but I generally think that Middle Egypt is considered un-safe at the moment, it has been like that for years. But on the other hand, I know of many people who have been to both Abydos, Amarna, Beni Hassan etc., and has enjoyed it. If you go, please be careful and prepare yourself for sights which are closed. I think you need to make special arrangements with a travel agency to be sure the different sites are open. Also note that it is actually illegal for, let's say, a taxidriver from Luxor to take you around Middle Egypt privately. This is not meaning that it can't be done, though. There were some clashes in Minya and Sohag this summer between muslims and copts, some shooting and killing. Fayum and Alex should be no problem - goes without saying - though policemen are infamously known to stop tourists at various checkpoints on the way to the Fayum (and other oases), pretending there is trouble, and demanding money to let you pass the checkpoint. Specially if you go privately, but I have tried this a few times myself with arranged tours. Nobody has ever said that Egypt was easy  I mean this in the best way, but you know what I mean if you have been to Egypt yourself. Have a lovely trip | ||
| Louise A. Member Username: louise Post Number: 6 Registered: 09-2002 Posted From: 213.237.27.241 |
Andrew, are you planning a Guardian trip or are you going more privately?Is it going to be Upper Egypt or do you stick to the Cairo area? As you might know, I am in Egypt several times a year, and if you have more specific dates and places, I think it could be so much fun to meet somewhere with you and some of the other great people inhabiting this board.  Maybe here? | ||
| Andrew Moderator Username: guardian Post Number: 518 Registered: 01-1997 Posted From: 216.76.156.108 |
Louise - My intention for 2003 is to do a private trip. I have some work to do there for Guardian's Egypt and The Plateau, so the next group trip would probably be for 2004. It will probably be a few more weeks before I nail down the dates, but I am shooting for the end of February. If you are in Egypt I would be very happy to get together. I'll certainly keep you posted. Best Regards, Andrew | ||
| Nicole B. Hansen Senior Member Username: nicole Post Number: 6 Registered: 03-2001 Posted From: 217.52.3.44 |
There were no clashes between Muslims and Copts in Minya and Sohag this summer, but there was family feud between two Muslims families that left 22 people dead in a massacre in Sohag. It shouldn't affect tourists though. | ||
| Andrew Moderator Username: guardian Post Number: 522 Registered: 01-1997 Posted From: 216.78.251.141 |
Nicole - Well, I'd certainly love to finally meet you when I get to Egypt. I'll keep you posted when the dates solidify. Andrew | ||
| Jon Bodsworth New member Username: jon_b Post Number: 2 Registered: 09-2002 Posted From: 195.92.67.66 |
Louise Can you help with some information as you have been 'on the spot' so recently? I have been in Egypt several times in the past few years but I have not got as far as Luxor since 1991. On that occasion my favourite way to visit the west bank sites was to hire a bicycle and cross the Nile in the early morning by the local ferries. I could then spend as long as I liked (I always travel alone) at any of the sites I chose. Has the introduction of the 'little trains' I've read about been linked to a restriction on individual travellers? Would I still be able to cycle around unhindered? I've loved my trips to Luxor and hope to return in February next year, any information would be a great help. PS I was lucky enough to see Horemheb's Tomb before its more recent closure. Jon B www.egyptarchive.co.uk | ||
| Sonny Stengle Member Username: sonny_stengle Post Number: 149 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 217.235.238.225 |
Jon, You do not need to use these little trains at all. You can walk there... You might get a problem with bycicles as NO vehicles are allowed to pass the "check point" without special permission. Anyway, just a 4 minute "train drive" or a 9 minutes walk greetinx Sonny} | ||
| Sonny Stengle Member Username: sonny_stengle Post Number: 150 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 217.235.238.225 |
Jon, no restriction on Westbank, same as 1991, only difference: "entrance"/parking space/restaurant/shops to the King's Valley is placed a several hundred yards more to the north. Tickets will be still checked at the old entrance. You may use the train or not. greetinx Sonny | ||
| Su Bayfield New member Username: su_bayfield Post Number: 14 Registered: 10-2002 Posted From: 62.64.232.168 |
Jon If you're feeling fit you can also leave your bicycle and buy a ticket at the Antiquities Inspectorate and walk over the mountain from Deir el-Medina or Dier el-bahri and down into the VOK - thus avoiding the bazaar which you now have to walk through from the car park at the entrance to the valley (Sometimes I get anti-social). The hike is well worth it for the views you get & spectacular photographs! The little trains, called tuff-tuffs are quite sweet though. Su www.egyptsites.co.uk | ||
| Jon Bodsworth New member Username: jon_b Post Number: 3 Registered: 09-2002 Posted From: 195.92.67.71 |
Hi Sonny and Su Thanks for the information. It's nice to know, before I go, that I will not be restricted as a lone traveller. I don't mind walking although a bike did enable me to get further afield. I know the walk from Deir-el-Bahri to the Valley of the Kings though I've only done it in reverse. The view down from the cliffs above the temple must be one of the great Egypt experiences. I also enjoy taking the path to Deir el-Medina along the same route as the tomb builders themselves. Jon B www.egyptarchive.co.uk | ||
| Louise A. Member Username: louise Post Number: 7 Registered: 09-2002 Posted From: 213.237.27.241 |
Jon, you could also hire a donkey for the mountain trip  anyway, as others have already stated, there are no probs at all travelling alone. keep me posted as to when you'll go, I might be there, and it could be fun to meet and have a chat or a drink and share experiences best regards Louise | ||
| Louise A. Member Username: louise Post Number: 8 Registered: 09-2002 Posted From: 213.237.27.241 |
Dar Nicole So I mixed things up, it's hard when one don't speak Arabic. Anyhow, I was told by my Egyptian friends about those clashes, and of course it didn't affect my guests at all, but some of them picked it up somewhere anyhow, and became extremely nervous about it! It's not easy to be a tourist in Egypt, and it is specially hard on those people who has never experienced the Middle East before. In our days, unfortunately, just gossip about something that may or may not have happened can make tourists very uncomfortable, no matter how well-meaning and friendly you and I know almost all Egyptians are towards tourists and visitors in general. I am always feeling most welcome when in Egypt, whether I am there working, on vacation or studying! But still, my professional opinion, now speaking as a tourleader,is that I would not recommend that tourists go to either Minya or Sohag, even though the socalled clashed are strictly between the Egyptians themselves! Have a great weekend Best regards Louise | ||
| Jon Bodsworth New member Username: jon_b Post Number: 4 Registered: 09-2002 Posted From: 195.92.67.71 |
Thanks Louise I'll let you know if I get a confirmed date of travel. I've not decided exactly yet when I will go and how I will split my time between places. If I do make it to Luxor I'm anxious to re-visit Abydos as I've not been there since 1979. I have been to Dendera more recently but was stopped by security concerns from getting to Abydos in 1991 as there was terrorist activity in the area at the time. Jon B |
